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Pelmets
Why make pelmets?
1. Pelmets give a finished effect to drapes and curtains - they look nice!
2. They are energy efficient - by stopping or slowing the convection current of air against a cold window.
Why make cardboard pelmets?
1. They are environmentally friendly - use partly recycled materials.
2. They are cheap - in fact so cheap that you could change your décor pretty often if so inclined!
3. They are light in weight.
4. Anyone can make them without any expensive woodworking tools
5. Quick to make - I made one per day without any problem.
1. Pelmets give a finished effect to drapes and curtains - they look nice!
2. They are energy efficient - by stopping or slowing the convection current of air against a cold window.
Why make cardboard pelmets?
1. They are environmentally friendly - use partly recycled materials.
2. They are cheap - in fact so cheap that you could change your décor pretty often if so inclined!
3. They are light in weight.
4. Anyone can make them without any expensive woodworking tools
5. Quick to make - I made one per day without any problem.
Materials needed to make pelmets that are 15cm (6") high by 20cm (8") deep
1. Cardboard cartons of uniform cardboard weight and thickness. To make it easier I chose cartons that had closing flaps that were 15cm (6") or more in width and at least 20cm (8") high. Some were even high enough to get 2 lengths from them. The total length of the finished pelmet + 41cm (16 1/2") is needed. You need to allow for room at each end for the curtain return.
2. Craft glue - I used the acetone based glue that is "fast drying, dries flexible and sets clear"
3. Spray adhesive
4. Empty tin cans - the type that hold about 420gms (1lb) food and are approx 10cm (4") high
5. Craft wadding - I used some that is approx 1½cm (1/2") thick when uncompressed.
6. Fabric to cover pelmet
7. Piping cord - I used some Macramé cord that I bought in an opportunity shop.
8. Cloth tape approx 5cm (2") wide
9. Construction adhesive
10. 40mm (1 ½") bullet head nails
11. Old newspapers or similar to protect your work table from glue and scratches
1. Cardboard cartons of uniform cardboard weight and thickness. To make it easier I chose cartons that had closing flaps that were 15cm (6") or more in width and at least 20cm (8") high. Some were even high enough to get 2 lengths from them. The total length of the finished pelmet + 41cm (16 1/2") is needed. You need to allow for room at each end for the curtain return.
2. Craft glue - I used the acetone based glue that is "fast drying, dries flexible and sets clear"
3. Spray adhesive
4. Empty tin cans - the type that hold about 420gms (1lb) food and are approx 10cm (4") high
5. Craft wadding - I used some that is approx 1½cm (1/2") thick when uncompressed.
6. Fabric to cover pelmet
7. Piping cord - I used some Macramé cord that I bought in an opportunity shop.
8. Cloth tape approx 5cm (2") wide
9. Construction adhesive
10. 40mm (1 ½") bullet head nails
11. Old newspapers or similar to protect your work table from glue and scratches
Tools needed
1. Large carpenter’s metal square
2. Bubble carpenter’s square
3. Utility knife and sharp blades
4. Metal tape measure
5. Caulking gun for construction adhesive
6. Hollow punch
7. Hammer
8. Tin snips
9. Large self healing cutting mat (or other surface on which to cut cardboard)
10. Sharp pencil
11. Calculator
12. Strong plastic spring clothes pegs
13. Sewing machine and zipper foot (straight sewing only for piping)
14. Thread to match fabric used for piping
1. Large carpenter’s metal square
2. Bubble carpenter’s square
3. Utility knife and sharp blades
4. Metal tape measure
5. Caulking gun for construction adhesive
6. Hollow punch
7. Hammer
8. Tin snips
9. Large self healing cutting mat (or other surface on which to cut cardboard)
10. Sharp pencil
11. Calculator
12. Strong plastic spring clothes pegs
13. Sewing machine and zipper foot (straight sewing only for piping)
14. Thread to match fabric used for piping
Instructions
The very first thing I did was to make a small model to make sure the whole idea would work! If you are in any doubt, please do the same.
The very first thing I did was to make a small model to make sure the whole idea would work! If you are in any doubt, please do the same.
This is the model I made.
I changed the original technique very slightly since this was made. My piping corners are better now!
I changed the original technique very slightly since this was made. My piping corners are better now!
1. Remove any sticky tape from the cartons and cut each one down one corner where it is joined.
2. Lay the carton flat on the cutting surface and position the large square along one of the long sides. Using the utility knife cut off the uneven edges at right angles to the edge.
.. I found that scoring first and then making several shallow cuts was easier and more accurate than trying to do it in one stage only.
3. Measure 15cm (6”) from the crease towards the flap edge. Mark at several places along this line and cut along the marks.
4. Measure and mark 35cm (14”) from this new edge, and cut the 20cm (8”) wide sides.
5. Continue until you have enough length for the pelmet.
2. Lay the carton flat on the cutting surface and position the large square along one of the long sides. Using the utility knife cut off the uneven edges at right angles to the edge.
.. I found that scoring first and then making several shallow cuts was easier and more accurate than trying to do it in one stage only.
3. Measure 15cm (6”) from the crease towards the flap edge. Mark at several places along this line and cut along the marks.
4. Measure and mark 35cm (14”) from this new edge, and cut the 20cm (8”) wide sides.
5. Continue until you have enough length for the pelmet.
6. From the off-cuts, cut squares approximately 10x10cm (4x4”).
7. When the carton is laid flat the gaps allowing for the flaps to fold will be seen. Cut strips across the corrugations to fill those gaps.
8. Cut along the fold 20.5cm to give the return. Use the square to indent (score without cutting) the end folds lightly with a plastic ruler or similar and fold up.
9. Place the section of carton on a protected surface with the potential inside surface up. Glue (craft glue) the squares over the gaps and folds of the carton with the corrugations at right angles to the carton (pelmet) corrugations. These should ideally be done on both sides of the long fold to make the whole job stiffer
7. When the carton is laid flat the gaps allowing for the flaps to fold will be seen. Cut strips across the corrugations to fill those gaps.
8. Cut along the fold 20.5cm to give the return. Use the square to indent (score without cutting) the end folds lightly with a plastic ruler or similar and fold up.
9. Place the section of carton on a protected surface with the potential inside surface up. Glue (craft glue) the squares over the gaps and folds of the carton with the corrugations at right angles to the carton (pelmet) corrugations. These should ideally be done on both sides of the long fold to make the whole job stiffer
End flaps cut and folded along indented scores
(This photo also shows one of the gaps that needed filling with narrow strips)
(This photo also shows one of the gaps that needed filling with narrow strips)
Squares being glued.
The contents of my pantry came in very handy!
The contents of my pantry came in very handy!
10. Turn the pelmet over and glue the narrow strips in the gaps. Take care to completely fill the gap since light may show through any gaps.
11. Cut the craft wadding 22cm (9”) wide and the length of the pelmet including the returns. Glue one edge with craft glue along the inside bottom edge.
I found that the more I could do with the whole thing flat the better.
11. Cut the craft wadding 22cm (9”) wide and the length of the pelmet including the returns. Glue one edge with craft glue along the inside bottom edge.
I found that the more I could do with the whole thing flat the better.
Instructions Part 2
1. Cut the pelmet fabric 45cm (18”) wide and the length of the pelmets + returns + end turnover - approximately 10cm (4”). I didn’t have enough fabric to do this with some of mine so I used only the width of the front side with turns - 22cm (9”) which worked out OK too.
2. Glue the fabric along the inside bottom edge slightly above the wadding. Leave the end flaps unglued for now.
3. Turn the pelmet over and spray adhesive onto the front side where the wadding will lie when folded up. Press the wadding to it to adhere.
1. Cut the pelmet fabric 45cm (18”) wide and the length of the pelmets + returns + end turnover - approximately 10cm (4”). I didn’t have enough fabric to do this with some of mine so I used only the width of the front side with turns - 22cm (9”) which worked out OK too.
2. Glue the fabric along the inside bottom edge slightly above the wadding. Leave the end flaps unglued for now.
3. Turn the pelmet over and spray adhesive onto the front side where the wadding will lie when folded up. Press the wadding to it to adhere.
4. Fold up the fabric and turn and glue the ends before gluing the long length on the inside.
5. Make the piping by sewing long strips of fabric over a piece of cord. I used Macramé cord. Some fabric strips were straight grain and others were bias cut - it did not seem to make much difference.
6. Turn the pelmet over so that the right side is on top with the long edge overhanging the worktable a little. Glue the piping to the under side starting by fixing one end with glue and slightly tensioning the piping as you go. This is where you need lots of clothes pegs as clamps.
7. Cut the lid and bottom from the tin cans and remove the ridges. (I found a special can opener that would do this easily.) Cut the tins with tin snips to give 4 roughly similar sections
5. Make the piping by sewing long strips of fabric over a piece of cord. I used Macramé cord. Some fabric strips were straight grain and others were bias cut - it did not seem to make much difference.
6. Turn the pelmet over so that the right side is on top with the long edge overhanging the worktable a little. Glue the piping to the under side starting by fixing one end with glue and slightly tensioning the piping as you go. This is where you need lots of clothes pegs as clamps.
7. Cut the lid and bottom from the tin cans and remove the ridges. (I found a special can opener that would do this easily.) Cut the tins with tin snips to give 4 roughly similar sections
As you can see - my 4 sections are not exactly equal!
8. Flatten these tin sections with a block of wood and hammer. (Excellent for letting off steam! LOL)
9. Use the construction adhesive to glue them to the pelmet at the long fold. If you glue them in place with the concave surface down the points will not be a problem. They will be flatter than the picture shows - I didn’t want to wake my neighbours by belting tin cans at 10 pm (which is when I’m writing this!)
9. Use the construction adhesive to glue them to the pelmet at the long fold. If you glue them in place with the concave surface down the points will not be a problem. They will be flatter than the picture shows - I didn’t want to wake my neighbours by belting tin cans at 10 pm (which is when I’m writing this!)
If you did not want to do this you could buy some thin metal sheeting and cut rectangles that would do the same job (holding the long length of folded cardboard at a right angle)
Everything has been done so far with the pelmet flat. Now is the time to bend it up and form the corners.
10. Start from one end and gradually bend and mould the pelmet till it is at a right angle. This is when you have to bend the tin pieces to hold this angle. Without them - the pelmet would bow out. Bend the end corners to the correct shape and hold with clothes pegs. Cut excess cardboard at ends so it will not show underneath the piping. Use craft glue to glue the ends.
11. Finish gluing the excess fabric over the top and to the back of the pelmet. Some pins may be handy here to lever and hold the fabric. Make sure that the front corners are neat. (My first effort was terrible because I wasn’t aware of what was happening to the front corners). Easily fixed though with a few pins and glue!
12. Turn pelmet front side down and use the cloth tape along the front edge and ends to make a mock lining. I used 3 overlapping rows. You need just enough so that the cardboard is hidden from someone outside the window.
13. Put the pelmet on the floor with the topside down this time and punch holes with a hollow punch along the edge that will sit on your architrave. Don’t forget to protect your floor! I found that 5 were enough for about a 3 metre (10ft) pelmet with the end holes about 10cm (4”) from each end. On longer pelmets I used more, and also put extras near the ends.
Everything has been done so far with the pelmet flat. Now is the time to bend it up and form the corners.
10. Start from one end and gradually bend and mould the pelmet till it is at a right angle. This is when you have to bend the tin pieces to hold this angle. Without them - the pelmet would bow out. Bend the end corners to the correct shape and hold with clothes pegs. Cut excess cardboard at ends so it will not show underneath the piping. Use craft glue to glue the ends.
11. Finish gluing the excess fabric over the top and to the back of the pelmet. Some pins may be handy here to lever and hold the fabric. Make sure that the front corners are neat. (My first effort was terrible because I wasn’t aware of what was happening to the front corners). Easily fixed though with a few pins and glue!
12. Turn pelmet front side down and use the cloth tape along the front edge and ends to make a mock lining. I used 3 overlapping rows. You need just enough so that the cardboard is hidden from someone outside the window.
13. Put the pelmet on the floor with the topside down this time and punch holes with a hollow punch along the edge that will sit on your architrave. Don’t forget to protect your floor! I found that 5 were enough for about a 3 metre (10ft) pelmet with the end holes about 10cm (4”) from each end. On longer pelmets I used more, and also put extras near the ends.
Finished pelmet.
The floral fabric was the one I didn’t have enough of - so it doesn’t fold over the back edge like my others. Note the 2 holes near the end.
The floral fabric was the one I didn’t have enough of - so it doesn’t fold over the back edge like my others. Note the 2 holes near the end.
The method of installation will vary with your particular situation - but I was able to use the curtain track brackets. I packed them up to the right height to hold the outer edge of the pelmet from sagging with little squares of cardboard glued together. I used the bubble square to align these to be at right angles to the wall.
To install my pelmet I just sat it on the curtain tracks - where it stayed with very little effort - and hammered in a nail though the center hole into the pelmet. This one nail was enough to hold it in position easily while I hammered in the other nails.
To install my pelmet I just sat it on the curtain tracks - where it stayed with very little effort - and hammered in a nail though the center hole into the pelmet. This one nail was enough to hold it in position easily while I hammered in the other nails.
I used some spay adhesive (temporary bond only) on a piece of thin card to protect the wall from the hammer.
Enjoy your new pelmets. I am!
Here are a few other pictures that I took as I went along. My technique changed as I progressed and each one was a bit better than the last. By the last one (of six) I had them perfect!
Enjoy your new pelmets. I am!
Here are a few other pictures that I took as I went along. My technique changed as I progressed and each one was a bit better than the last. By the last one (of six) I had them perfect!
I was making sure that it would actually work!
This is when I discovered that the more done flat the better!
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